Sacred temples provide glimpses into Hawai’ian culture for history buffs like us.
Two massive heaius near our Big Island Keauhou condo recall a centre where influential chiefs ruled and young royals trained. Built on a pahoehoe lava flow, these restored platforms encompass half a football field, with walls over two metres thick.
Wooden tikis protect legendary Ke’eku, a place of human sacrifice and place of refuge. Because of legendary wars between Hawai’i and Maui, this is one of Hawaii’s most famed heiaus. One invading chief was defeated and sacrificed atop its altar.
Hapaial’i lies just across the narrow tidal inlet and hosted grand ceremonies celebrating promotions in ali’i ranks. Here, we imagine prayer towers and altars for the worship of their many gods, including Lono, Kanaloa and Kane. Archaeologists discovered this heiau was also a solar calendar. Kahunas could mark the winter solstice when the noon sun is directly above its southwest corner and summer solstice when the sun is over its northwest corner.
A block away at Kahalu’u Beach Park, a small altar sits on another rock platform overlooking the water. This site is the only one in the islands dedicated to surfing gods. Surfers still place fresh fruit and flower offerings at Ku’emanu, invoking favourable wave conditions for a sport originally restricted to royalty.
Another day, we drive through south Kona to Pu’uhonua o Honaunau, Place of Refuge. Our peaceful stroll winds through shady coconut groves once forbidden to commoners, where generations of powerful ali’i lived in ten thatched dwellings. At a pitted lava-slab filled with coral bits and black pebbles, we visualize royalty playing the ancient game of konane. Green turtles bask along the sheltered beach, formerly an ali’i canoe landing.
Ferocious tikis guard Hale o Keawe, a heiau mausoleum that held revered bones of 23 noble chiefs. The adjacent Great Wall encloses pu’uhonua, a sanctuary. Defeated warriors and strict kapu law-breakers swam the bay to find safety here. Even queen Ka’ahumanu found refuge under a huge rock after quarreling with her husband, Kamehameha the Great. Kahuna priests absolved refugees of crimes, allowing their return to regular life.
Beyond the desolate lava landscapes north of Kona, we explore the last heiau ever built in Hawaii. A colossal rock platform, Pu’ukohola straddles Hill of the Whale. To fulfill a prophecy foretelling his successful conquest of the islands, Kamehameha I built this temple honouring war god Ku. The park ranger explains, “A chain of strong warriors passed heavy red rocks over 23 kilometres to skilled masons, who erected it in less than a year!” Considering completion in 1791 a good omen, Kamehameha set out. Battling mighty chiefs for over eight years, he gained control of the islands and established the united Kingdom of Hawaii in 1810.
Our last day, the trolley drops us at Kailua-Kona’s pier. Nearby tikis surround Ahu’ena heiau and its thatched drum house. The tallest tiki represents the golden plover Koleamokua, a healing god. Dedicated to Lono, god of peace and prosperity, this heiau became Kamehameha I’s personal retreat from 1812 until his death in 1819, at nearly 70 years old. From waters edge, he surveyed his lands and the historic harbour.
Following Kame-hameha’s death, his son and successor Liholiho dined at this site with queens Keopuolani and Ka’ahumanu. His bold move broke strict taboos on men and women eating together and led to the abolition of the kapu system. With traditional beliefs rejected, heiaus such as this were abandoned and even destroyed. Authorized to land here in 1820, missionaries replaced Hawaii’s former religion with Christianity.
In visiting these heiaus and learning their stories, we enjoy new insights into island culture.
