Our Lady of Chartres Cathedral has attracted travellers from around the world since the Middle Ages. Still one of France’s most visited monuments, this massive Gothic cathedral beckons to us as well.
Direct trains travel almost hourly between Paris Montparnasse Station and Chartres. A comfortable double-decker TER train carries us across 80 kilometres of lovely rolling countryside, and along the way, our guidebooks recount the renowned cathedral’s story.
In 1194, a raging fire devastated medieval Chartres, including its beloved church. Only the towers, Royal Portal and stained glass remnants remained. But working together using volunteer labour and ambitious fundraising, the townsfolk and lords rebuilt their place of worship in an unbelievable 30 years. This cathedral became fondly known as the Bible in stone.
Strolling from the train station into a large park, soaring spires greet us from afar. The world’s tallest Romanesque steeple rises on our right. Topped with its original solemn spire from 1140, this ‘old’ bell tower contrasts with the ‘new’ one to the left, boldly flaunting a lacey flamboyant Gothic steeple built in the 1500s. Today, many climb its 300 worn steps for amazing topside views of the pretty town.
Huge flying buttresses gradually come into view, as well as the countless figures adorning the wondrous façade and main entrance. Classical columns adorned with 19 elongated kings, queens, prophets and priests frame the Royal Portal’s three doorways. Their lifelike faces contradict their stiff, rigid bodies. Above them, arched panels display sculptured scenes from Christ’s holy story. The left panel shows angels pulling him upward atop a heavenly cloud. The centre shows his apostles, all gathered around him. And in the right panel, Mary sits on the Throne of Wisdom holding the infant Jesus on her lap.
Inside the hushed, softly lit cathedral, 172 stained glass windows emit rainbows of brilliant colour from all sides. Wealthy 12th century merchants and royalty had donated these extraordinary windows to inspire hope. Like us, many bring binoculars to better see the intriguing details. Most depict the familiar Bible stories; some scenes reflect daily medieval life. The most notable windows are above the west entrance, fire survivors radiating with exquisite blues.
Surrounding the choir, a monumental carved stone screen further illustrates biblical scenes, including the stations of the cross. Flanked by pink marble columns flecked in gold, a magnificent white angel rises behind the altar, representing the glorious Ascension.
During the Middle Ages, multitudes of believers had journeyed here just to see the sacred Veil of the Virgin. Believed to be the Virgin Mary’s tunic worn at the birth of Christ, the treasured pale yellow relic drapes on a chair in the Chapel of the Martyrs.
And inlaid near the nave is a labyrinth, an important element in most 13th century cathedrals. We observe as devout worshippers slowly walk along the eleven concentric, maze-like pathways, a reverent, hour-long meditation. Early pilgrims doing penance here repented as they followed this 262-metre path on their knees, fervently praying and mentally travelling from earth to God.
Below a walled terrace behind the cathedral, some folks also walk a gigantic outdoor labyrinth in adjacent Jardins de l’Eveche. Others visit the former bishop’s palace, now La Musée des Beaux-Arts. We find a stone bench in a shady niche and munch our baguette sandwiches immersed in magnificence. The air soon fills with gentle song. A street entertainer serenades us, chanting ancient French parables with a plump floppy hen puppet held firmly under his arm.
Before returning to the train station, refreshing cassis gelatos conclude a day spent amid glorious architecture, art and history. Our splendid pilgrimage to World Heritage Chartres Cathedral proves inspirational.
Check out direct services to Paris with Air France: www.airfrance.com
See Eurorail schedules and book tickets at: www.raileurope.ca
