qathet-based chef continues ramen journey in Osaka

Chef Avi Sternberg is continuing his ramen food culture training with chef Matsubara, owner of Ryukishin, a well-loved ramen shop in Namba City, a district of Osaka, Japan. 

Sternberg said he is learning the history and culture of ramen in Japan and around the world, and most importantly, what essential components go into making a delicious ramen soup.

The Peak sent Sternberg questions about his training with master chef Matsubara and what he has learned so far about ramen food culture.

Peak: What have you learned so far about the history of ramen in Japanese food culture?

"Ramen only came into Japan in the early to mid-1900s and experienced a boom during the period immediately following World War II when the government set heavy rations on rice," said Sternberg. "Wheat was being used in Yokohama in noodle-soup dishes based on cuisine coming from southern Chinese prefectures such as Guangzhou." 

Sternberg explained that ramen is very different from traditional Japanese cuisine, which emphasizes the use of seafood, low sodium and little oil in its cooking preparation.

"Ramen uses a lot of salt, oils and animal-based products."

The use of salts, oils and fats is probably the reason ramen has taken-off in popularity around the world. Who wouldn't be tempted by a steaming bowl of hot broth, filled with all the ingredients the human body craves?

Peak: Will this trip influence what you do in the qathet region and in your culinary classes?

"I will work with the chef Matsubara at Ryukishin to eventually serve the plant-based salt ramen that he serves at his restaurants," said Sternberg. "I will introduce [to qathet] a salt-ramen option for both chicken and vegetarian."

Peak: Can you explain the plant-based ramen culture in Japan?

"Ryukishin is the first shop in all of Japan to serve specialty, salt-based ramen," said Sternberg. "The owner [Matsubara] conceived the idea that salt-based ramen can be served using the Miracore product. 

The Peak previously reported that a Japanese-based company has developed a 100 per cent, plant-derived umami ingredient called Miracore, which has made it possible to create a vegan dashi that tastes similar to a non-vegan one.

"They [Ryukishin] have developed the first gluten-free, rice-flour-based ramen noodle, which has quickly become a popular favourite with vegetarian travellers across the world," said Sternberg. 

However, shojin-ryori, a cuisine prohibiting the consumption of animal products based on the Japanese Buddhist tradition, has been present for hundreds of years, Sternberg emphasized.

"Vegetarianism and plant-based cuisine is expanding [in Japan] with the use of all vegetables and exploring different ethnicities," said Sternberg. "The number of restaurants does not compare to North America, but the industry is slowly growing." 

Peak: What exactly goes into making a good ramen? What are the different types?

“Chef Matsubara explained that there are four major components to ramen making: the broth, the noodles, the fragrant oils and the toppings.

“It all starts with the broth. Shoyu, or soy sauce, and miso flavoured broths use premium ingredients to celebrate those flavors." 

Chef Matsubara’s shop is the first salt-flavoured (shio/clear-broth) specialty ramen shop in Japan. He frames salt-broth ramen as the Japanese “consomme,” which is the pinnacle of soups in French cuisine.  

"A lot of care and thought is used to prepare a clear broth that accentuates the flavours of the ingredients used to produce the soup," said Sternberg. "Quality salts are carefully selected to bring layers of harmony and identity to salt ramen." 

The point of creating this type of ramen, added Sternberg, is to highlight the quality of the noodles and the fragrance of the oil.

"The chicken, pork, green onion, shellfish and shitake mushroom can be fully enjoyed because of the simplicity of the broth without the flavors of soy or miso. Each sip of this harmonious broth is filled with the opportunity to enjoy the quality of the broth, the texture of the noodles and the flavour of the oils in its purest sense."  

What was the experience like in the kitchen at Ryukishin, learning from chef Matsubara?

"He took me through a tasting of all of his ramen types. He and his sous chef Kitabatake demonstrated the timing, flow and sequence of putting a bowl of ramen together."

Sternberg said they also shared the process of making the first gluten-free ramen noodle, made of rice flour, in all of Japan, and explained the history of their involvement with the Miracore products.  

"Together they have over 50 years of ramen-making experience.”  

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